The Wine Blokes

The wine regions of Bordeaux are the area around the city of Bordeaux within the Gironde department of Aquitaine. The region is naturally divided by the Gironde River into a Left Bank area which includes the Medoc and the sub regions of St-Estephe, Pauillac, St.-Julien, and Margaux and a Right Bank area which includes the subregions of Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Bourg and Blaye. Additional wine regions include the area of Graves which is south east of the Medoc and includes the sub regions of Pessac-Loengnan, Sauternes and Barsac. Across from the Graves, on the Right Bank, is the Entre-Deux-Mers area between the Gironde and Dordogne rivers.

All of these regions have their own appellation and Appellation d’origine controle laws which dictate the composition of their vineyards, time of harvest and appropriate yields as well as various winemaking techniques. Bordeaux wine labels will include the region on the front if all the grapes have been harvested in a specific regions.

Estates in Bordeaux are often classified according to the reputed quality of the producer. On the Left Bank, the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 is the starting point for classification and includes most of the Left Bank estates as well as Sauternes and Chateau Haut-Brion of Graves. Estates who were not classified in that listing may be classified under the Cru Bourgeois label. In 1953, the rest of the Graves was classified. In 1954, a separate classification of Saint-Emilion wine was set up for this Right Bank region.

While wine making styles do vary, a general rule of thumb is that the Left Bank is predominately more Cabernet Sauvignon based with the Right Bank more Merlot based. The Graves area produced both red wine and white wine from the Sauvignon blanc and Semillon grapes. The area of Sauternes and Barsac are more known for the botrytized dessert wines.

Bordeaux wine regions of Gironde department and its appellations

Generic Bordeaux

Generic Bordeaux AOCs include Bordeaux AOC (red wine), Bordeaux superieur and Bordeaux clairet, as well as Bordeaux rose and Bordeaux blanc. All producers in the different Bordeaux areas are entitled to produce under these generic appellations. In fact, less presitigious areas use these appellations, including independent wineries, negociants and cooperatives. These appelations obey stric quality rules made by the INAO institute and the produced wines are excellent, though not as good as the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations.

Left Bank

The wine regions of the Left bank of the Gironde river is bordered by large coniferous forest land that have a tempering affect on the maritime climate of the area. The region spans from the mouth of the river down south and includes the four famous communes of St-Estephe, Pauillac, St. Julien and Margaux. It also includes the area formerly known as the Bas-Medoc (lower Medoc), but now simply labeled as Medoc, this region of Bordeaux is located at the mouth of the Gironde River. Although the region does not have any classified growths, there are a number of Crus Bourgeois located in the soft clay soil of the Medoc. As Merlot favors the clay more than Cabernet Sauvignon, the wines from this region tend to have favor the right bank style of St.-Emilion more than other Left bank wines.

The Central Medoc includes the area between St. Julien and Margaux. This area is home to many Crus Bourgeois including the Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels rated Chateau Chasse-Spleen, and Chateau Poujeaux. Within the Central Medoc there are the appellations Listrac-Medoc and Moulis-en-Medoc. Within Moulis, some wines estates near the village of Grand Poujeaux have added that name to their labels. The Listrac appellation is located on a lime stone based plateau and produced highly tannic wines that require a bit of aging before they soften.

The area just south of Margaux is called Southern Medoc with wines produced in this area using the Haut-Medoc designations or, in some cases, Margaux. This area includes the classified growths of Chateau La Lagune in Ludon and Chateau Cantemerle in Macau.

St-Estephe

Among the four famous Left Bank communes, St-Estephe is the northernmost region with the jalle du Breuil dividing it from Pauillac to the south. The soil of St-Estephe is a heavy composite of clay washed ashore from the Gironde. This soil type drains slowly and gives St-Estephe estates an advantage during dry summers. The wines produce here tend to have more acidity then other red Bordeaux and with less perfume. While Cabernet Sauvignon is still the dominant grape, this sub-region has more planting of Merlot than any other area on the Left Bank.

St-Estephe has five classified estates. The Second Growths Chateau Cos d’Estournel and Chateau Montrose. The Third Growth Chateau Calon-Segur. The Fourth Growth Chateau Lafon-Rochet. The Fifth Growth Chateau Lafon-Rochet. The region also has numerous Cru Bourgeois including the Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels rated Chateau Haut-Marbuzet, Chateau Les Ormes-de-Pez, Chateau de Pez, and Chateau Phelan Segur. The area is also home to several independent vignerons who produce wine as various co-operative such as the Marquis de Saint-Estephe and Canterayne.

The Chateau Latour tower in Pauillac is featured on every bottle of this First Growth wine

Pauillac

Located south of St-Estephe, the area around Pauillac has the highest elevation of the Medoc with the estates of Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Pontet-Canet sitting on a summit of 100ft. Up until the early 19th century, Malbec was considered the great grape of the Pauillac region. Eventually the Cabernet Sauvignon vine took hold in the gravel soil of the area. Vineyards in Pauillac are not as parceled as other regions of Bordeaux with entire slopes and plateaus belonging to a single estate.

The area of Pauillac has more classified first growth estates then any other area of Bordeaux. These include the First Growths Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Latour and Chateau Mouton Rothschild. The Second Growths Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron and Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The Fourth Growth Chateau Duhart-Milon-Rothschild. The Fifth Growth Chateau Pontet-Canet, Chateau Batailley, Chateau Haut-Batailley, Chateau Haut-Bages-Liberal, Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse, Château Lynch-Bages, Château Lynch-Moussas, Château d’Armailhac, Château Pedesclaux, Château Clerc-Milon, and Château Croizet Bages.

St-Julien

Situated on two plateaus between Pauillac and Margaux, the wine region of St-Julien has the smallest wine production of the four major regions in the Medoc. The region is divided into essentially two areas-the riverside estates around the village of St.Julien and the southern estates around the village of Beychevelle where the areas Cru Bourgeois are also grouped. The waters of the Gironde estuary have a warming influence on the climate which, coupled with the south easterly exposure of most vineyards, helps to fully ripen the Cabernet Sauvignon vines in this area.

St-Julien has the highest proportion of classified estates then any other region in Bordeaux. These include the Second Growth Chateau Leooville-Las Cases, Chateau Leooville-Poyferre, Chateau Leoville Barton, Chateau Gruaud-Larose, and Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou. The Third Growths Chateau Lagrange, Chateau Langoa Barton, Chateau Saint-Pierre, Chateau Talbot, Chateau Branaire-Ducru, and Chateau Beychevelle.^. These eleven classed growths account for nearly 80 percent of the entire region wine production.

Margaux

The Margaux appellation encompasses the village of Margaux and the neighboring villages of Arsac, Labarde, Soussans and Cantenac. It is the most southerly of Medoc’s appellations. The commune makes almost entirely red wine, harvesting Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot grapes, with only a small amount of white wine made. This region has the thinnest soil in the region with the highest proportion of gravel that allows the soil to drain very well. The wines from this area is very susceptible to the overall quality of the vintage year and the weather effects during the growing season and harvest.

The area is home to more classified second and third growths then any other appellation including the first growth Chateau Margaux. The region is also home to the second growths Chateau Rauzan-Segla, Chateau Rauzan-Gassies, Chateau Durfort-Vivens, Chateau Lascombes, and Chateau Brane-Cantenac. The region’s third growths include Chateau Kirwan, Chateau d’Issan, Chateau Giscours, Chateau Malescot St. Exupery, Chateau Cantenac-Brown, Chateau Boyd-Cantenac, Chateau Palmer, Chateau Desmirail, Chateau Ferriere and Chateau Marquis d’Alesme Becker. The three fourth growths are Chateau Pouget, Chateau Prieure-Lichine, Chateau Marquis de Terme. The two fifth growths are Chateau Dauzac and Chateau du Tertre. The areas Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels include Chateau Labegorce and Chateau Siran.

Vineyard of Moulis-en-Medoc

The Médoc appellations

• Medoc AOC
• Haut-Medoc AOC
  • Saint-Estephe AOC
  • Pauillac AOC
  • Saint-Julien AOC
  • Listrac-Medoc AOC
  • Moulis-en-Medoc AOC
  • Margaux AOC

Graves

This region is bordered on the north by the Garonne river and contain the sub regions of Pessac-Leognan Sauternes and Barsac. It is known for its intensely gravelly soil. The soil is the result glaciers from the Ice Age which also left white quartz deposits that can still be found in the soil of the some of the top wine making estates. While Chateau Haut-Brion was included in the 1855 classification of the Medoc, the Graves appellation itself was classified in 1953 for its red wine producers. White wine were included in an updated 1959 classification.

The Graves is considered the birthplace of claret. In the Middle Ages, the wines that were first exported to England were produced in this area. Chateau Pape Clement, founded at the turn of the fourteenth century by the future Pope Clement V, was the first named chateaux in all of Bordeaux. In 1663, Samuel Pepys’ mention of Chateau Haut-Brion was the first recorded mention of French Claret in London.

Pessac-Leognan

This area of the Graves, located just south of the city of Bordeaux, is home to the first growth estate Chateau Haut-Brion, as well as all the 1953 classified Graves Growths, including Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion and Chateau Laville Haut-Brion. In addition to wine production, the area is known for its crops of pine trees and vineyards are often separated by rows of forest trees. The soil of Pessac-Leognan is composed of gravel terraces with sediments from different geological eras.

The area received appellation status in 1987 and produces both red and white wines. All of the estates named in the 1959 Graves classification are located in this appellation.Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant grape variety, followed by Merlot and the white wine grapes Sauvignon blanc and Semillon. The white wines of this area are barrel fermented and aged on their lees.

Sauternes and Barsac

A Sauternes vineyard

Sauternes is a subregion of Graves known for its intensely sweet, white, dessert wines such as the Premier Cru Superieur classified Chateau d’Yquem. Wines produced in the region of Barsac, such as Premiers Crus Chateau Climens and Chateau Coutet are allowed to be labeled either with the commune name or with Sauternes. The intense sweetness is the result of the grapes being affected by Botrytis cinerea, a fungus that is commonly known as noble rot. In the autumn, the Ciron river produces mist that descend upon the area and persist till after dawn. These conditions are conducive to the growth of the fungus which dessiccates the grape and concentrates the sugars inside. The three main grapes are of this are Semillon, Sauvignon blanc and Muscadelle.Production cost in this area is high. The evaporation and fungus affections produces low yields, five to six times less then in other Bordeaux regions. The berries are normally harvested individually from the bunch with pickers going through the vineyards several times between September and November to ensure that the berries are picked at their optimal points. The wine is then fermented in small oak barrels, further adding to the cost. Even with half bottles of the First Growths priced at several hundred dollars, these wines still have difficulties turning a profit and in the mid 20th century a string of bad vintages drove many growers in the region out of business.

The Graves appellations

• Graves AOC
  • Pessac-Leognan AOC
• Carons AOC
• Barsac AOC
• Sauternes AOC

Right Bank

The area of Libournais encompassed much of what is referred to as the Right Bank. Named for its historical capital, Libourne, this area sits on the right bank of the Dordogne river and expands west past the convergence of the Isle river. Further west, after the Garonne and Dordogne rivers meet, the region of Bourg and Blaye is found the right bank of the Garonne. The expression Right Bank typically refers to wines from the Pomerol and St-Emilion areas of Libournais.

Pomerol

The area of Pomerol was first cultivated by the Romans during their occupation of the area. Up until the early 20th century the area was known mostly for its white wine production. This area within Libournais doesn’t have a distinct city center with several villages spread across an area about the same size as St.-Julien. The area overall has gravel based soil that is typical of Bordeaux with western and southern section having more sandy soil while the northern and eastern sections towards St.-Emilion having more clay composition.

The wines of Pomerol have a high composition of Merlot in their blends and are considered the gentlest and least tannic and acidic of Bordeaux wines. Cabernet Franc, known in this area as Bouchet is the second leading grape and helps to contribute to the dark, deep coloring that is typical of Pomerol wines. Due to the reduced tannins found in these wines they can typically be drunk much younger than other red Bordeaux. The chateaus in the area are not classified, with the winemakers seemingly disinclined to devise one, although Chateau Petrus is often unofficially grouped with the First Growths of Bordeaux.

Saint-Émilion

The wine region of Saint-Emilion centers around the eponymous commune of the same name. There are several villages around the region that share the Saint-Emilion name, such as Montagne-Saint-Emilion and St-Georges-Saint-Emilion, and are permitted to label their wines under the same name. The area is bordered to the west by Pomerol. Merlot is the dominant grape in this area, followed by Cabernet Franc. The climate and damper, cool soils of the area makes it difficult for Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to fully ripen and as such is less often used. The wines take a little longer to mature then the ones in Pomerol but are still able to drunk relatively young for a Bordeaux (4-8 years). In favorable vintages the wines have a good aging potential.

Saint-Emilion wines were first classified in 1878 and have been continuously revised with the most recent revision occurring in 1996. Chateaux are divided into two First Growth classification-Premiers Grands Crus Class A, which currently includes Chateau Ausone and Chateau Cheval Blanc, and Premiers Grands Crus Class B which currently includes 13 chateaux such as Chateau Angelus and Chateau Figeac. Below the Premiers crus are the Grands Crus Class s which currently includes 55 chateaux. Estates can apply for classification by passing two tasting panels.

Vineyards in Saint-Émilion

The Libournais appellations

• Saint-Emilion AOC
• Montagne-Saint-Emilion AOC
• Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion AOC
• Lussac-Saint-Emilion AOC
• Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion AOC
• Pomerol AOC
• Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC
• Fronsac AOC
• Canon-Fronsac AOC
• Nasac AOC
• Cotes-de-Castillon AOC
• Bordeaux-Cotes-de-Franc AOC

Bourg and Blaye

The Garonne and Dordogne rivers meet near Bourg

North of Libournais, this area sits on the Right Bank of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers and is one of the oldest wine producing regions in Bordeaux, exporting wine long before the Medoc was even planted. Merlot is the main grape of the area followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The area around Bourg also has sizable Sauvignon blanc planting for sparkling wines and Ugni blanc for cognac.

The Blayais-Bourgeais appellations

• Blaye AOC
  • Cotes-de-Blaye AOC
  • Premieres-cotes-de-Blaye AOC
• Cotes-de-Bourg AOC

Entre-Deux-Mers

Entre-deux-mers (literally, between two seas) is a dry white wine made in Bordeaux. The appellation is one of the largest in the Bordeaux region and is situated between the Garonne and the Dordogne (which are actually considered inland seas). The area is responsible for three quarters of the wine sold under the generic Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux superieur labels.

The Entre-Deux-Mers appellations

• Entre-Deux-Mers AOC
• Graves-de-Vayres AOC
• Premieres-cotes-de-Bordeaux AOC
• Cadillac AOC
• Loupiac AOC
• Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC
• Haut-Benauge AOC
• Cottes-de-Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire AOC
• Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux AOC