The Wine Blokes

By Sarah D

A group of Adelaide Hills winemakers, grape growers and wine enthusiasts recently met at Genesis Vineyards in the Adelaide Hills to taste a selection of Gewürztraminer wines from Australia, New Zealand and Alsace.

The vineyard is owned and run buy Stephen and Angela Cowper with the majority of fruit being sold to local and interstate wineries. A small volume is kept for their own label, Blackford Stable and is made by their daughter Nicky Cowper.

A small block of Gewürztraminer is being planned for planting in the next few years so we gathered to taste a selection of wines to review different styles of this variety from various producers and regions.

Roger, Paul and Sarah from The Wine Blokes prepared the following summary of the wines that we tasted on the day.

Gewurztraminer sometimes referred to as Gewürz, is an aromatic white wine grape variety that performs best in cooler climates. The variety has high natural sugar and the wines are usually off-dry, with a flamboyant bouquet of lychees. Dry Gewürztraminers may also have aromas of roses, passion fruit and floral notes. It is not uncommon to notice some spritz (fine bubbles on the inside of the glass).

1.) Vinoptima Estate Ormond Gewürztraminer 2003 Hawkes Bay- Gisborne

Nick Nobilo from Vinoptima has pioneered this variety in the Gisborne region of New Zealand and is consistently producing top wines from this vineyard. The winery specialises in Gewürztraminer and it is all fermented in large 5000L oak vats. 2003 was the first vintage release for this wine and had a rose petal and sweet apricot nose with a dry palate with nectarine characters. A great aperitif style wine. Screwcap, 13.5%.

2.) Villa Maria Cellar Selection Gewürztraminer 2005 Hawkes Bay

Villa Maria are a major producer of high quality wines from the Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne regions of New Zealand. This wine had a very aromatic nose with matching palate, another dry style wine suited to aperitifs. Screwcap, 14.5%.

3.) G. Wizz Gewürztraminer 2007 Hawkes Bay

This wine had a simple but sweet nose, the palate was slightly unbalanced and disjointed with a dry finish. Not a great example of this variety but an interesting wine all the same. Screwcap, 13.5%.

4.) Clearview Gewürztraminer 2005 Hawkes Bay

Clearview is a small family operated winery and restaurant in Hawkes Bay specialising in Chardonnay but also producing Gewürztraminer from their vineyards. This wine had a simple nose without the typical aromatic notes. The palate was a touch hard and the acid balance was not quite right.Screwcap, 13.5%.

5.) Lawson Dry Hills Gewürztraminer 2004 Marlborough

Lawson Dry Hills is another family operated winery in Marlborough. Tired with supplying grapes to other wineries, the Lawson family decided to try their hand at winemaking. The first wine they produced was a Gewürztraminer. The 2004 Gewürztraminer that we tried had a delicate and lifted nose with classic rose petals and apricots. A great example of this variety. Screwcap, 14%.

6.) Lawson Dry Hills Gewürztraminer 2006 Marlborough

The 2006 vintage from Lawson Dry Hills was one of the standout wines that we tasted on the day. Similar to the 2004, the nose was aromatic with a hint of spice. The palate was very well balanced. A great example of this variety and obviously a very consistent producer of this variety. Screwcap, 14.5%.

7.) Kahurangi Estate Gewürztraminer 2004 Moutere

Yet another family operated winery located at Moutere close to Nelson. Fruit is grown on Kahurangi vineyards in and around Moutere and from selected private grape growers in the Nelson region. The 2004 Gewürztraminer was sourced from fruit from Moutere and has a nose with subtle aromatic rose petal and some spice. The palate displayed great balance of fruit and acid.Screwcap, 13%.

8.) Johanneshof Gewürztraminer 2006 Marlborough

Johannsehof cellars were established using European principles of close vine planting and also minimal interference in the vineyard and winery. All winery operations utilise gravity from the multi level winery reducing the need for pumping wines. This wine had a great nose with aromatic notes and fresh fruit characters. The palate was slightly sweet but had great acid balance. This was a highlight of the tasting. A very stylish wine. Cork, 13%.

9.) Huia Gewürztraminer 2005 Marlborough

Huia are located within the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Like many New Zealand producers, Huia Vineyards are managed under principles of sustainable and holistic grape growing promoting environmentally and economically sustainable practices. The grapes were sourced from 2 vineyards from Marlborough with several clones in each vineyard. The nose displayed typical aromatic note with some hint of phenolic characters. The palate was a touch hot with more intensity and character expected from a wine partially barrel fermented in French oak. Screwcap, 14.5%.

10.) Blackridge Gewürztraminer 2006 Central Otago

The Blackridge vineyards are located in Central Otago and claim to be ‘The southern most winery & vineyard in the World’.Specialising in Pinot Noir, Blackridge also produce a good Gewürztraminer from their vineyards. This wine had a stewed apple and lemon nose while the palate was slighter bitter and had a very ripe finish. Cork, 14.5%.

11.) Rippon Gewürztraminer 2006 Central Otago

Lake Wanaka, Central Otago is home to Rippon a small producer specialising in Pinot Noir and Riesling. The 2006 Gewürztraminer displayed a sweet confectionary nose and the palate appeared a bit broad and over ripe. Cork, 13.4%.

12.) Hugel Gewürztraminer 2005 Alsace

No introductions are needed here, a classic wine that all tasters rated very highly to be expected from a producer such as Hugel. The wine displayed a lovely subtle floral nose and a very balanced palate with great length. Highly recommended. Cork, 13.5%.

13.) Pewsey Vale Gewürztraminer 2007 Eden Valley

Pewsey Vale have been making great Riesling from Eden Valley for years but are now turning their hand to Gewürztraminer as well. This wine had all the traits of a great Riesling, a bit minerally and with great acid, however it lacked the typical floral and stone fruit characters of Gewürztraminer. A pleasant wine all the same. Screwcap, 13.5%.

14.) Pewsey Vale Gewürztraminer 2006 Eden Valley

The 2006 vintage of the Pewsey Vale Gewürztraminer was a better example of this variety and the wine displayed more floral aromas. The nose was still slightly restrained and minerally but the palate was quite pleasant and not too sweet. Screwcap, 14%.

15.) Penfolds Cellar Reserve Gewürztraminer 2006 Eden Valley

Penfolds introduction but it is encouraging to see such a big producer still making a diverse range of varietals such a Gewürztraminer. This wine displayed some sulphur on the nose and palate. The acid balance was spot on but the fruit was slightly hidden. Screwcap, 13.5%. need no

16.) Pipers Brook Gewürztraminer 2004 Tasmania

Pipers Brook source the majority of their Gewürztraminer grapes from their vineyards in North East Tasmania and also in the Tamar Valley to increase the diversity and character of their wines. This wine was a little disappointing, the nose was slightly reduced and the palate was short with some phenolic characters present. Their was a lack of fruit intensity on the palate. Screwcap, 13.7%.

17.) Delatite Dead Mans Hills Gewürztraminer 2007 Mansfield

Delatite have been making some great wines over the years from North east Victoria. Despite the drought, fires, and frost of the 2007 season they have produced a great wine from the 2007 vintage with the 2007 Gewürztraminer being one the best that we tasted on the day. The nose was fresh and clean with lovely aromatic characters. The palate was slightly dry but very fresh and crisp. Highly recommended. Screwcap, 13%.

18.) Magpie Estate The Salvation Gewürztraminer 2007 Barossa Valley

Magpie Estate is a joint venture between Rolf Binder and an English wine merchant. The wines are made from Barossa Valley fruit- not a typical region for this variety more commonly produced in cooler climates. This producer has created an exception to the rule and was well received by most tasters on the day. This wine displayed a ripe and fruity nose with some aromatic characters. The palate was fruity and slightly dry. Screwcap, 13%.

Overall Comments:

In general there was a big difference between the styles of Gewürztraminer from New Zealand and Australia. The New Zealand wines generally had higher alcohol levels and were generally a sweeter style while the Aussie wines had higher acids and appeared to be confused with Riesling as many of them lacked varietal intensity and appeared to have been made more like a Riesling rather than a Gewürztraminer. The diversity of this variety was certainly made evident by the mixture of the styles that we tasted. Some of the wines lacked natural fruit character and, and not overly expressive in the true Gewurz style.

Pick of the bunch.

• Lawsons Dry Hills 2006

• Hugel 2005

•Villa Maria 2005

• Vinoptima 2003