Organic or Environmentally Sustainable - Spot the Difference??

As a winemaker and viticulturist I have worked in wine grape growing regions that have many different practices and strategies to manage the production of grapes and wine. Throughout many regions, more predominantly smaller, boutique producers are exploring the possibility of making wine under organic practices, however on closer investigation, the cost, time, and paperwork involved can scare even the most persistent vigneron into continuing along the well trodden path. However a few do take the plunge, and it is no walk in park. Not only do they contribute to sustainable agriculture and reduce or cease the use of chemicals, but they create a competitive niche for themselves in a consumer market that perceives anything as organic as superior. In fact the term organic is a little misleading as some chemicals are still able to be used, albeit in smaller quantities. However I’m sure there are grapegrowers out there who refuse to use any chemicals at all.

So what is organic agriculture: The International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement describes the overall aim as this:

“The role of organic agriculture, whether in farming, processing, distribution, or consumption, is to sustain and enhance the health of ecosystems and organisms from the smallest in the soil to human beings.”

Many grapegrowing areas of Australia, particularly cooler regions such as Tasmania, parts of Victoria and South Western Australia, find it difficult to product wine under organic conditions. During the growing season, grapes are susceptible to a variety of fungal diseases such as powdery mildew and botrytis cinerea. In severe infections, both of these diseases will seriously reduce the quality of the grapes intended to make wine, and in some cases destroy the crop all together. To control these diseases, growers traditionally spray with fungicides such as derivatives of copper and sulfur. There are also a range of target specific fungicides on the market. If the grape growing season is particularly wet and or humid, fungal diseases can generate rapidly, and without the aid of fungicides, crops are in serious danger of being destroyed. In warmer regions, the risks are much less. Therefore in many cases, with the cost and time involved in becoming organically certified, plus the added risk of potential crop loss, many grape growers do not see organic agriculture as a viable option.

What other options are there for the grape grower. There are many ways grower are reducing their environmental impact on the land, and we thought it would be appropriate to explain some of the strategies viticulturists are using, and it is evident that many are doing so entirely to reduce their environmental footprint, and any market benefit is a bonus.

The following are some of the strategies being used:

  1. Chickens in the Vineyard – One of the ways viticulturists are tackling insect pests such as weevils (who attack leaves, green shoots, and immature grape bunches) is to introduce chickens and or guinea fowl into the vineyard. They also have the added benefit of keeping undervine weeds under control, and of course the manure can add natural fertilizer.

  1. Sheep in the Vineyard – By running sheep in the vineyard in winter, it reduces the need for mowing and thus reducing compaction by tractors and fuel use, and also helps reduce weed populations. The addition of organic fertilizer is also a bonus.
  1. Good bugs – In some grape growing regions moulds such as sooty mould can be caused by Mealy bugs leaving a trail of residue on the vines. This turns into a fungal infection that can destroy the integrity of the grapes. By introducing other bugs such as Lady beetles and Lacewing, they feed on the mealy bugs and hence reduce the population to such a level that sooty mould is no longer a problem.
  1. Canopy Management – Canopy management in the vineyard is extremely important in producing quality grapes, and can significantly reduce disease pressure under the right conditions. Viticulturists routinely remove leaves around the grape bunches to increase exposure to sunlight. This also has the added benefit of increasing air flow around the grapes, reducing the humidity and fungal spore population.

These are just a few of the many strategies that grape growers are using to do their part in becoming environmentally friendly. So when selecting wines, even though it might not be a certified organic product, it may very well have been produced by a vigneron that is doing their part to create a sustainable future in the vineyard.

About the Author

Jono

Jono has been involved in the wine industry since he was quite young. His parents had a small vineyard and winery in the Gippsland region of Victoria, Australia, and spent plenty of school holidays working in the vineyard and winery. He completed a Bachelor of Agricultural Science (Oenology) from the University of Adelaide (formely the Roseworthy Agricultural College). He also holds a Post Graduate Degree in Business Management from Monash University. His wine industry experience include working as a winemaker for Petaluma in the Adelaide Hills under the legendary Brian Croser. He was then sent to Smithbrook in the Pemberton region of Western Australia, then owned by Petaluma. He spent 6 years at Smithbrook managing the vineyard and winery, and during that time also completed a vintage at Chateau Carsin in Bordeaux. The two years leading into 2008, he traveled the world with his partner sampling the worlds best wines, and also fulfilling his other passion of equestrian competition.

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