The Wine Blokes

Jon F.

This is indeed one of those posts where I get a little gushy. For 7 years I put my heart and soul into creating and developing the potential of the Smithbrook vineyard.  Along with my boss and mentor Michael Symons, we inherited an over managed, over cropped vineyard and successfully transformed it into one of the best performing vineyards in the Pemberton wine region of Western Australia.  We changed management practices to create a synergy between climate and site, removed blocks and varieties that were not suited to a particular patch, and fine tuned an environmental philosophy where less is more, allowing the vines to find their own balance.  Yields were slashed, and concentration of flavour and structure were fundamental.

One of our greatest challenges was Merlot. It’s fickle to the point where 4 weeks prior to harvest everything looks stunning, and then it kicks you in the guts and turns the other way.  We tried different fermentation practices, oak regimes, yeasts, and blending, and it was painstaking.  We have both worked vintages in Bordeaux, so have had the insight of some of the best Merlot vignerons in the world.  What we learnt is that Merlot is highly site specific, and what works in one block, will not neccessarily work in another.

In 2004 we both thought we were well on the way to the desired result, but as always, there was plenty of room for improvement.

Our actions and philosophies have been vindicated though, with numerous reviews and accolades.  The most recent being rated amongst the top few Merlots in Australia and New Zealand (and also a few French benchmarks), in the current issue of Gourment Traveller Wine magazine Merlot tasting.

“2004 Smithbrook Merlot adds a little petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon for fruit intensity and structure. The wine’s round, fleshy palate and stylish balance are spot-on for merlot and a nutmeg from new oak adds further interest to the ripe fruit. Caillard strongly supported the wine, finding the oak rather prominent on the nose, but slipping in the background on the palate. Well balanced, structured and impressive, he noted. I thought the tannins rather abrupt, without detracting from the wine. Drink now or cellar for a couple of years. 92 Points”

The tasting was conducted by Peter Bourne, Nick Bulleid MW, Andrew Caillard MW, Peter Forrestal, Huon Hooke and Sophie Otton.

Even though I’m not directly involed with Smithbrook now (I still help out now and then), it’s satisfying to see a result like this.

You can view the wines for sale over at our UK Wine Shop.