The Wine Blokes

By WineBloke Jon F.

Many wine drinkers know and understand that Champagne and Sparkling wine is made in a variety of ways. However there are rules and regulations determining the appropriateness of legally calling a wine champagne.

Champagne is a wine-producing region in France that makes sparkling wine. And it is only this sparkling wine, which follows a strict set of rules and regulations according to Champagne’s Appellation Origine d’Controlle (AOC) that can be called “Champagne”. The rules state that Champagne is to be made from one or a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. (white and red grapes). It also designates specific production methods .

There have been numerous cases made against wine producers outside of Champagne, especially in other countries such as Australia and South Africa, for labelling their wine as champagne, when it can only be called Sparkling wine.

There are 3 main methods for making Champagne or Sparkling wine, and the methods differ due to cost, quality, and style.

Méthode Champenoise: The grapes are harvested when the grapes have an appropriate balance between sugar and acid, and generally whole bunch pressed. The initial fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats and continues until the wine is completely dry. It is then blended with other vintages to make the cuvée (base wine). The cuvée is bottled with a mixture of sugar and yeast, known as tirage that becomes the catalyst for secondary fermentation.

The bottles are then placed at a forty-five degree angle, necks-down, in an “A-frame” racks, called a pupitre. The bottles are then twisted by hand to dislodge sediment and have them resettle into the bottle neck. This is called riddling. Traditionally riddling is done by hand but it is now being replaced by machines, Gyropalettes, that are less labor intensive and quicker in production time.

Once the bottles have finished a turn rotation, the sediment is removed through disgorgement. The bottle necks now contain the sediment and are frozen. The pressure inside the bottle releases the ice-block of particles. A small amount of wine, dosage, is added back into the bottle to both fill the bottle and adjust the sweetness levels. From harvest to final bottles, the champagne method takes at least 2 to 5 years.

Transfer Method: The transfer method is less expensive, less time consuming and less labor intensive than the champagne method. The process is the same until the wine is removed from the bottle while still under pressure. This maintains the bubble. The wine is then filtered and bottled into new bottles. The wine essentially is still champagne, but the filter process can reduce full yeast flavors and some of the sparkle. The label may read, “Fermented in the bottle” whereas champagne method labels will read, “Fermented in this bottle.”

Tank Fermentation: Many cheaper wine or producers of large volumes of sparkling wine are made using a bulk process or closed cuvée method. The wine undergoes secondary fermentation in a large stainless steel tank. The wine is filtered and bottled from the bulk tanks while under pressure. This method results in coarser, large bubbles with simple flavors.

This method is great for aromatic grapes such as Muscat Blanc. Charmat process is faster and can be done in about 3 weeks. Many American sparkling wines use this method. Although not the greatest quality, there is a large world market for this style of wine, and allows wine producers to produce large volumes and sell with a nice margin.

Sparkling wine is also made via direct injection of carbon dioxide just like a soft drink, however these are usually very cheap with large bubbles and a very short sparkle.

So next time you purchase a bottle of Sparkling wine, check what method of production was used, as it is directly related to the price and quality of the wine. By law, the method of production needs to be stated on the bottle. If you find a bottle made via Tank Fermentation or direct carbon dioxide injection, and it has a price label of $50, my advice would be don’t buy. You’ll just wake up with a nice headache and a lighter wallet, although we’ve all been there at some stage.